The Importance & History of Handloom in India - Reviving the Heritage of Khadi and Handloom through Sustainable Fashion

The Importance & History of Handloom in India - Reviving the Heritage of Khadi and Handloom through Sustainable Fashion

FROM LOOM TO LIBERATION: As we celebrate India’s 78th Independence Day, Nete pays an ode to the evergreen allure of handloom in India. 

Hello folks, and happy India’s Independence Day! As promised, I’m back. This time, I’m here to talk about a piece of our rich heritage and the journey of freedom—khadi and handloom. Yesterday, while going through one of those wardrobe-decluttering days, I stumbled upon one of my most favourite handloom clothing that I have ever owned. One that was gifted to me. It was a beautiful, soft white Jamdani shirt with intricate weaves, and it took me down memory lane.
I realised I don’t see clothes as just pieces of garments; I see them as stories. That is one of the biggest reasons I started Nete a decade ago. I wanted to handpick designers whose clothes have a story to tell. And when it comes to stories, what can be a better fit than handloom weaving? The OG sustainable style of weaving that creates fabrics that have been, over millennia, celebrated for their quality, authenticity, and the stories they carry from the hands that weave them. 
History of Handloom

Indian handloom has been a cherished craft for centuries, with roots tracing back to the Indus Valley Civilization (circa 3000 BCE), where cotton was first cultivated and woven into cloth. By 1750, India was the world's largest cotton textile producer, known for the quality and craftsmanship of its textiles. With the arrival of the British East India Company in the early 17th century, and the Industrial Revolution in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, British factories began churning cotton cloth more quickly and cheaply than our traditional hand weavers could manage, eventually replacing handloom fabric for making clothes. But, drumrolls here, as this also became a cornerstone of the Indian indictment of the Raj. Mahatma Gandhi chose Khadi, a humble handspun and handwoven fabric, as his non-violent tool to advance the cause of India’s freedom. And Khadi became a revolutionary emblem of the political fight for Indian independence.

Today, we continue to celebrate handloom as a symbol of sustainability and cultural heritage. From big designers to small independent brands, the sustainable weaving style is being rewoven with contemporary threads, making handloom a part of everyday clothing, occasion wear, and wedding trousseaus. 

Hmmm… Does that mean Khadi and Handloom are the same?

This is one of the most commonly asked questions. While both Khadi and handloom represent traditional, handcrafted textile methods, they are distinct in their production processes and characteristics. Khadi emphasizes the entire process from spinning to weaving by hand, whereas handloom highlights the weaving aspect, often using machine-spun yarn. Hence, while handloom can feature intricate patterns and colours, khadi is usually simpler in appearance. 

Nete.in’s Ode to Handloom

In a world where fast fashion dominates, it’s often said that the most sustainable garment is the one in your closet. The next best thing, we say, is to become a conscious customer. Buy less, choose better. At Nete.in, we honor the artistry of handloom by collaborating with designers who fuse traditional roots with modern designs. And here are a few of them:

1. The Ikat Weave

  
2. The Jamdani Weave: It has also been recognised as an intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO.

3. The Classic Weave 

But how is Jamdani different from Ikat?

Jamdani and Ikat are two distinct traditional weaving techniques, each with its own unique history, method, and aesthetic. While Jamdani is a type of fine muslin textile, originally from Bengal (now Bangladesh and West Bengal in India), Ikat is a dyeing technique that originated in various parts of the world, including India, Indonesia, and Central Asia. Jamdani is a direct weaving technique with designs added during the weaving process, whereas Ikat involves pre-dyeing the yarns before weaving. If you notice the two, you will see that Jamdani designs are sharp and intricate, whereas Ikat designs have a characteristic blurred appearance due to the dyeing method. 

Handloom and Feminism

That’s an intriguing combination, right? Handloom weaving today, and has always been, a significant source of livelihood for women, especially in India, providing them economic independence. Handloom weaving also carries major cultural significance, thus preserving traditional stories passed down through generations. It fosters a sense of community, and women weavers play a crucial role in maintaining this heritage.

Women In Handloom
Importance of Handloom

Handloom weaving techniques—Ikat, Jamdani, or any other—are celebrated for their artistry and craftsmanship, representing the rich textile traditions of their respective regions. Let’s celebrate this Independence Day by cherishing our heritage and embracing the timeless beauty of khadi and handloom. Each piece is a testament to our culture, resilience, and stories that connect us to our past and future. Be vocal for local. 

Please share your questions and thoughts below. We'll consult with our experts and do our best to help you become a more conscious consumer.

Mariya Khanji
Founder, Nete.in

 


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